What is the Because Nature Mycelium powered Carbon Dioxide Generator?

 Your Mycelium powered CO2 generator comes complete and is already producing CO2  . There is no need to activate it.

All you need to do is place your Mycelium bag in your indoor grow room / tent  (for best results hang your bag just above plant height) and the Mycelium will do the work for you.

One large bag will cover a 1.8 x 1.8 meter space for up to four months.

One small bag will cover a 1.2 x 1.2 meter space for up to four months.

How do I use my Mycelium powered C02 Generator?

Inside your bag is a living Mycelium culture growing on a sawdust block. Just like us humans Mycelium inhales Oxygen and exhales CO2 .

This is great news as C02 is a vital gas your plant requires to be able to Photosynthesize.

The Mycelium in your bag will consume the CO2  waste from your plant and in exchange  produce Oxygen for your plants for up to four months allowing them to photosynthesize at their best.  A problem with growing indoors under artifical light is the ability to create a CO2 rich environment for your plants affordably

shiitake mushroom
shiitake mushroom
shiitake mushroom
shiitake mushroom
shiitake mushroom

Fruiting Guide for Shiitake Mushrooms

When to fruit
Once your shiitake block is colonised with mycelium, it will initially be white and then begin turning brown over the next 5-8 weeks. You would want to put it in a fruiting environment when it’s at least 75% brown – about 8-12 weeks after it has been inoculated. As the block turns brown, it will also start to form small humps on the surface, sometimes called “pop-corning”

Ideal fruiting conditions

Many strains of shiitake can tolerate a wide range of temperatures. It’s possible to successfully fruit them when it’s cold in winter and also in temperatures above 30 degrees Celsius. I’ve heard success stories of fruiting shiitake in containers in hot summers where temperatures reach over 40° C outside. We find shiitake do well in low temperatures, however, they grow a little slower and often produce less but larger mushrooms. In really hot temperatures the mushrooms grow quickly, but be aware for contaminants. A high humidity environment is key! This can be achieved using many different ways. Unlike other popular gourmet mushrooms (e.g. oysters), shiitake are fairly tolerant of high CO2 environments, so you don’t need a lot of air-flow in conjunction with the high humidity.

Fruiting in a plastic tub

What you’ll need:
  • a large clear plastic storage container
  • a hand-mister.
A plastic storage container will be used as your fruiting vessel. If you don’t have one, you can get them fairly cheaply from a Mambos or Game. MAke sure the plastic tub should be as clean. Wash it out with hot water and detergent, or use a mix of 70% methylated spirits, 30% water in a spray bottle to sterilise it and then wipe it down with some clean paper towel. Then place your block in the tub and make sure to open it once a day to give it some air and a few quick squirts with a hand mister. You can take the lid off the container and use it as a fan to help get some get some oxygen in. I find that this method works better when the weather is warmer, as liquid is less likely to pool in the bottom of the container. The main problem you’ll have with this method is bacterial contamination. The block will continue to exude metabolites (brown liquid) that are susceptible to contamination, especially if the block is sitting directly in them. One way to avoid this is to do the same thing as the bucket method and place a brick in the container with water underneath. The liquid metabolites will disperse into the water and you can dump out this dirty water when you are ready to harvest. Another method that I’ve developed that works quite well is to skewer the blocks on spikes in the container. This keeps the blocks off the bottom of the container and prevents them from sliding around or toppling over. It allows you to arrange the blocks to maximize fruiting space.

Checking in on your mushrooms each day

For the first few days, open the fruiting container and give the block a couple of sprays with your hand mister. You want to wet each side of the block if starts to look like it’s drying out. In a few days you’ll see mushroom pins (baby mushrooms). Keep misting the blocks each day for a few more days and then stop misting when the mushroom pins start to look like proper mushrooms. If you mist the block as the mushrooms get larger, they tend to stay wet and have a reduced shelf life after harvesting. Within 7-10 days after placing your block in a container they should be ready for picking. The mushrooms should be doubling in size every day, once they stop growing it’s time to pick them!


Harvesting shiitake mushrooms is fairly easy. I generally harvest all the mushrooms in a single session, unless there are clearly two pin sets at different stages of growth. I’ll get the block, put it on a piece of newspaper and then cut the top mushrooms off the top of it with scissors. After doing this, I’ll turn the block upside down as I find it quicker to harvest the mushrooms from the underside. You can use a knife, or even twist the mushrooms off, I find that twisting them off often rips large chunks of sawdust with it, this means extra clean up. If I’m harvesting for myself, and I’m not going to use the stalks, I’ll just cut the heads off the mushrooms and leave the stalks on the block. No point doing extra cutting in the kitchen! *Please note in winter months we use cold weather Shiitake which fruits in a lower temperature and in summer we use the warm weather Shiitake.

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